s.kuhlman - stand apart.

Deep Green for Fall 2010

2009-10-03T12:20:00.002-05:00

Don't have a photo, however just got done working with fabric mills for Fall 2010 and there is an amazing Loden Green that is back in the fabric collections. It is the deep, dark green what they are then using Purple and Lavendar stripes that really create quite a color combination.

I am headed to Hong Kong for the next couple of weeks, however will try to get some fabrics scanned so you can see what you will be wearing a year from now!

Old School

2009-09-29T14:31:00.003-05:00

We are deep in the process of working on 3 seasons, first the current season, Spring 2010 and Fall 2010. I am in Istanbul this week, then off to China for 2 weeks, then back to Istanbul for another week.

I thought is was a great photo of doing something the Old School Way!

We were very successful with a stretch fabric for Spring 2010 and we have been developing additional ideas with one of our fabric mills. Because we are using a Polyimide fiber to make the fabric even softer (the mill calls this fabric Heaven Stretch), this gentleman is testing the fabric to make sure that Polyimide is being used. He is doing this by lighting some of the yarns on fire, then based upon the smell, he can tell if Polyimide or Polyester is being used. Polyimide is the cashmere of synthetic yarns, so many times mills will try to use polyester yarns.

So much for technology!

Giant Vending Machine

2009-08-28T05:21:00.002-05:00

A few years ago when we first started our stores, we talked about building a Giant Vending machine. Of course through the years we have had amazing people in the stores. However, we wanted to create an environment where we could literally have Self Check Out and someone at the door checking reciepts. Basically creating a Giant Vending Machine. If we had great people working in the store, this would be a bonus.

I don't think we ever got to that point. What is interesting, the hotel industry is figuring out this model. I am staying at one of the coolest hotels that I have ever stayed. Check out Citizen M in Amsterdam www.citizenm.com , it is a very cool environment.

The place is totally wired, the rooms are some of the smallest I have ever stayed in (think Hudson in NYC). They are maybe 10ft x 10ft and that includes the shower, toilet, sink and bed. However the design is spectacular! Check In and Check out is done by the guest and I think there are 2 Employees on the premise (one of them is a bartender, smart a tremendous revenue producer).

Garment Dyed/Washed Cotton Suit

2009-07-11T15:41:00.005-05:00

Believe it or not, we have been working on perfecting the above garments for over a year. The photo on the right, is a cotton suit in it's "Greige" state, or "Ready for Garment Dying". The suit on the left is the final result.

We have not only Dyed the suit, we have also given the suit a light wash to give it a slight Patina or what the market place will call Vintage. We love this slightly disheveled look and this suit is now something that we live in and wear practically everyday.

I remember in the 1960's and 70's going every Spring with my Grandfather to get his new cotton suits. Of course he always and a tan, then would add olive, navy and stone. Then every so often, when he felt daring he would add a pincord or seersucker.

This is the modern version of this suit that my grandfather wore. The good news, it isn't just for Spring and Summer anymore. We will have it Chocolate and Navy (plus 5 other colors), with a great woven shirt and a fine gauge cashmere sweater will be perfect for this winter!

Final samples have arrived, now it is time to put production into work. Look for them on the web by Mid August. Also more professional photo's coming soon and wait until we show you what we have done with Cashmere in this same jacket! You will flip out.

Fall 2009

2009-07-10T08:56:00.002-05:00

I was talking with a reporter from the retail industry this morning and she wanted to know if people were calling us crazy for relaunching a brand in the economic times that we are currently in. We also had a great discussion about Fall 2009.

In our discussion about Fall 2009, I mentioned the fact that it is well reported that Retail Inventories are down significantly. The question that everyone has, will the consumer not be inspired because they don't have the quantity to choose from? I posed the question, which is more important, will the consumer recognize a shift in the quality of products?

I say this, because it has also been well reported that most major apparel brands have been developing new opening price points for their retail partners. There has been a focus from the retailers to get their current brand/supply chain to come up with an new opening price point that will keep shoppers in the store. Some would call this "trading down", of course at retail we do not like this word and we have spun this as "not trading down", because the shopper is still buying the same brand.

What has not been reported is all the Margin Guarantee money that was supplied to retailers from their Wholesale partners last Fall, after the blood bath that everyone took. This meant a major shift in margins for the wholesale community. This, coupled with these new "Opening Price Points" mean only one thing, a major shift in the quality of products hitting the store shelves for Fall 2009.

If you think about this, manufacturing got killed last year by writing the checks back to the retailers for their margin guarantee, then for Fall 2009, the retailer has also asked for a lower price point. This can only mean one thing, the manufacturer has to take something out of the product to hit this lower price point, then they have to take out more, to make sure that if the same thing happens this year, that happened last year, they have the margin in the product to write the check to cover the margin guarantee.

So, you ask are we crazy for relaunching now, I would say absolutely not. We have focused all of our energy into making the BEST products, yet achieve Retail Price points that are attainable.

What do you think, do consumers get inspired by the mass quantities, or do they get inspired by GREAT PRODUCT. We are voting on the product.

What do you think?

Web up and Running

2009-07-10T08:43:00.004-05:00

The new site is up and running! www.skuhlman.com

Fresh styles, done in the s.kuhlman way, we hope you enjoy. Remember that the site is in Beta, however we are working on it daily to add new and improved features.

In the coming weeks you will be able to add comments on the products and we look forward to what you think.

We are bringing to the market, products that we want to wear, that have the Anglo-Italian styling that we experience in Europe, however we add our American Twist! Happy shopping.

The Jacket

2009-03-29T16:47:00.004-05:00

Although men have always had what we have called the Suit Jacket, Sportcoat or Blazer, this item has never been more prevalent. You would think that in a more casual world that the jacket, much as the tie/cravat would go away. We believe there has never been a more important time for men's jacket.

With all of our new electronics that have become so important to us, because the "Man Bag", as much as we like it has not take off, because a fanny pack is not someone we will even consider and wearing electronics on your belt should just not happen, the Jacket is not only the last resort, it is a great part of fashion when done correctly.

Jackets today should be soft, comfortable and as the picture shows, "to the body". In the past we have called these jackets sweater coats or shackets (not a shirt, not a jacket) and although we use many of the principles of the past, today's jacket is fully constructed and uses all types of fabric. From beautiful cashmere, to fine linens and cottons, the Jacket is now the key to a man's wardrobe.

When we moved into a more casual world, every man tried to take their suit coats and sportcoats and try to wear them with Denim. We would hesitate from doing this. The proper jacket to be worn in a more casual way has certain aesthetics that a coat constructed for a Suit or a dress sportcoat, simple does not have.

Now you will ask, what are these aesthetics. Typically it starts with the shoulder. This is a shoulder shape/look that is typical of Italy. We prefer the Neapolitan shoulder that even has slight puckering (this is another blog). This shoulder is soft and round. The jacket is also light and drappy, the armhole is high and the body should fit to your body. This should not be baggy and sloppy. When cut this way, the jacket will move with you.

The other key parts to this look are then the fine gauge sweater and the woven or knit. One of the key fashion ideas that we will also start to promote, is men starting to tuck their shirts back into their pants!

Look forward to more discussion on the jacket!

The Ensemble

2009-03-27T15:51:00.003-05:00

Of course you all know that we love color. We will continue to use this, however it will be in ways that blend solid together. The lavender that you see above is what we see all over Italy. Lavender has always been a favorite of ours.

When you look at the outfit above, this is what you are going to see from us in the future seasons. This easy way of dressing is prevalent is Europe and we find this is the way that we want to look each day. A great denim or cotton bottom, cool shirt (look for some great knits), a sweater for layering and the piece that is missing from above, the Jacket.

Hang in there, the website is still under construction and we are putting the final details on new stores!

These new stores will go back to the roots of the brand....Great products at prices that are understandable from the day the product hits the floor. We will not price the product to "Put on Sale", it will simply always be "For Sale"!

My Favorite Place

2009-03-20T14:10:00.009-05:00

I wanted to share with you Villa Teto. Also below is a paper that one of our daughters wrote for a class project. The beautiful part of this, the description that she writes about, Susan and I have never spoken about. We love the fact that our daughters "get" our love of Italy.

My Favorite Place

Italy is my wonderful, harmonious retreat. We travel to our countryside home several times a year and it's like mulitple Christmases for me. I love the feeling of solitude it has that is so different from Minneapolis. The sensation of all the unusual smells drifting up to my mind is one of a kind. The sound of quiet country soothes my city adapted ears. It's like being in a dreamland. Italy is my grassy heaven.

The sound of our funny looking Italian car moving across gravel tells me we are close. Close to my paradise, my heaven, my home. I roll down my window and take in teh wonderful perfume of rosemary and olives. The thousands of crooked, old olive trees look more like old men in the dark shadow cast across the land. My body shifts forward as we rumble down the slanting driveway. The front light is like a beacon guiding us back. Butterflies flutter in my stomach as the car slows to a stop. I grab the door handle and jolt out of the car as fast as I can. I taste a faint hint of salt in the wind blowing from teh west, carrying the sea to our doorstep. A hedge obsures my view of the neighboring vineyard, but i know its there by the smell of the sweet grapes. The gleam of the stars reflects off the pool. A wind comes again and teh strong smell of chlorine gusts up my nose. Coughing, I turn to the right and see a sight to beautiful for words. Hills roll on and on for miles. Flowers and trees of all kinds flourish across them and bring sweet, delicious aromas across the valley. Keys jingle as the door creaks open. A call comes to my ears for me to get inside. I difficultly pull myself away and walk to my bed.

The next morning the daylight brings a different scene. Birds I don't recognize sing tunes of beautiful sound. Wind blows across the hills and the miraculous, deep green cypress trees flutter in the breeze. I hear the splashes of water as my sister jumps in the pool. The water gleams like a crystal in the sun. I turn around and see a great square of orange. Our house shines like a second sun in the bright light. A buzz comes near me; I look around and see a huge wasp. It is the biggest I have ever seen. I swat it away not wanting to be stung. A movement on the wall of our house distracts me. I walk slowly over and hear a scuttle of little feet. A lizard moves slickly along the wall. It had brilliant stripes of orange and beady black eyes. I reach for it and feel a jolt in my stomach as i pull off its tail. The lizard seems not to notice and scurries off to find shelter from the giant that is me. I throw the tail in the grass. Sweat drips down my face in the scorching heat. I taste lliquid salt on my lips. I look up. Not one cloud is visible in teh pale blue sky. I walk across the gravel driveway to an old, wooden fence. I climb over it and fell the rough wood scratch my hand. The intense smell of ripe olives overwhelms me. I am encircled by thousands of trees. It's like a huge fairy forest. I pick a fig from the only different tree in the meadow. Sweet mush meets my mouth and my taste buds are in heaven. I walk on while finishing it. The knots in the ground make me stumble. I sit and feel the moist, mossy ground. If only I could stay there forever. Buy my moment of bliss finishes all too quickly. My mom calls me for lunch. Not the call, but the smeall of pasta draws me towards the house. As I walk, I truly fell content and really understand why I love Italy so much.

Ellen Kuhlman

Terzo Posto

2009-03-09T16:39:00.002-05:00

We have just begun plans on the new Retail Concept, Terzo Posto, or the 3rd Place. In our last retail venture, our intent was to always evolve it into the 3rd Place, using an Americanized version of the Italian culture and products that we have come to love.

Of course this space will be filled with the kuhlman brand of products and many of them coming from the small Italian suppuliers that we love. Many of you have some of the product from over the years and hopefully you love it today, just as you must loved it when you purchased it.

Over the weekend, Susan and I were at the Minneapolis Italian Film Festival. We were please to see a young man wearing one of our favorite cashmere coats. (Fabric from our favorite mill Guabello)
Our intent is to build this same product.

The other aspect of Terzo Posto, will be the food element. During the summers in the small towns near our home, the church in each small town has a Sagra, or a festival. The food at the festival is ususally the food of the region.

We intend to take a little liberty with this idea and have a Saturday Morning Sagra. Each Saturday morning, we will invite a guest chef to serve 100 Breakfasts of his/her choosing. We also intend to invite groups that need to raise money, to come had serve during this breakfast and all the proceeds will go to their group. We look to bring the "Event" back to Saturday Retail!

Look for more in the coming months on the first Terzo Posto to open!

Garment Dyed Shirts

2009-03-04T17:53:00.002-06:00

In the coming months we will be talking about garment dying and washing. We are really excited about this poplin fabric what has a little crunch to it.

We have build shirts with our signature contrast stitch, then garment dyed in more then 15 colors.

Garment dying is a great technique that we will be using on shirts, knitwear, jackets, trousers and sweaters.

One of the leading manufactures is wwww.boglioli.it they do amazing stuff. Hopefully we can achieve what Boglioli has done. Some of the best products will be for the Fall seasons, when you garment dye and wash a cashmere jacket, you achieve the epitome of the sweater coat!

Foulard Print Shirt

2009-02-28T16:41:00.003-06:00

I wanted to give you a tease of what we are working on getting up on the web shortly!

Lots of great stuff! Get ready.

2008 Estate Olive Oil Label

2009-02-28T16:25:00.005-06:00

We finally have the label done for our Estate olive oil. For those that have never tried "Estate" olive oil, you are in for a treat.

In the future we hope to expose items that we have found in our travels.

This oil is from our home in Lucca, Italy. Very shortly we will show you how to get your hands on this liquid gold.

Let the Blogging Begin!

2009-02-28T14:39:00.003-06:00

I have been away from blogging for some time, however please know that we are back to writing about our favorite things!

In the coming days, take a look at some of the posts, I believe we will have some interesting news concerning our brands and the latest retail ventures.

I have also once again worked with my father-in-law to photograph some of the amazing product that will be coming to a store near you soon.

For all of those who have been emailing, asking where they can get the products, hang in there and we will provide information shortly.

Printed Fabrics

2008-03-26T14:23:00.006-05:00

You've heard us talk about color being the foundation of the kuhlman brand. Other elements are texture, patterns and prints. We have been scouring the world looking for the freshest prints available - prints we want to wear. An important part of the equation is that the fabrics need to be "of the moment" and need to evolve over time.

While we're continuing with the trend of clothing getting closer to the body, we also want to continue with a more simplified approach to design. This includes the patterns and prints that we offer.

Some of you will remember the amazing paisleys and geometrics that we did a couple of years ago. Although we loved them then, we now will have new prints that are of "this" moment! Keep in mind that the colors have evolved along with the patterns and scale of the prints.

The cool thing about these prints is that they fall under the kuhlman mantra of "utilitarian". You can wear them under a great solid suit, a subtle windowpane jacket or with a pair of worn chino's or favorite jeans.

One of the design philosophies that we continue to believe in comes from our Italian influence where "less is more". We believe there is a calling for a more subdued print where we can still be of the moment while filling our need to stand apart and feel great about what we are wearing.

They're not available yet - but we just wanted to let you know what we are working on. We'll be sure to send a blast when they are on line and in our stores in the weeks ahead!

Add some color to your wardrobe!

2008-03-05T11:33:00.002-06:00

Color has always been the foundation for the Kuhlman designs and collections. Of course we’re not professing that every one needs to be a peacock when wearing color. We like a nice crisp white shirt, just like the next guy. However, by having a beautiful pocket square peeking out, worn with a classic grey or navy suit and that crisp white shirt is nothing less than elegant!

Some folks choose colorful socks. Again, the entire sock does not need to be colorful, however a sock with a contrasting heel and toe color is always fun to put on in the morning. I can also assure you that you will garner smiles when going through security at the airport!

Or for those less daring, how about some bold Silk knots with that white or blue French cuff shirt. Just a little hint of color, but every time you raise your arms and see the knots, you are sure to get a little smile.

On these dull and dreary days, we challenge you to show a bit of color!

Mink Scarf Up Close!

2007-12-14T14:24:00.000-06:00

For those that would like to see this work of art up close, here you go!

Mink Trimmed Wool and Cashmere Cape

2007-12-14T10:59:00.000-06:00

Our friends, Antonio and Ursula in Florence have created one of the most beautiful products that I have seen in some time. You can call this a cape, throw or a shawl - I just call it BEAUTIFUL.

They used a classic Biella, cashmere/wool fabric, then they trimmed it with Mink. There were only 8 of them created, one of them will be in the Kuhlman home and there are now 7 available for the rest of the World.

Don't you just love Italians. We have always used the word "utilitarian", they are so good about using things in many different ways. One minute you could be snuggled up on the sofa with this over you and the next minute you could be headed out the door with this as your outerwear piece. There are not too many items that can be used in such a way!

This is so elegant that you could wear this to your New Year's Party and be the Belle of the Ball!

Email orders@kuhlmancompany.com if you want to purchase one today. Refer to Cashmere Cape for the special price of $699 from $995! Measures 144 cm Square. They will not last long!

Italian Style

2007-11-28T18:20:00.000-06:00

Ok, so I'm not the best photographer and most likely will not win awards, however- after spending the past several weeks in Italy working on product, visiting our factories and spending some time in our favorite stores in Pistoia, Lucca and Arrezzo, I had to take a photo of our favorite outfit of the season in the stores. We think this is just a great outfit. It features an exploded plaid tweed coat, not too heavy, but it looks like fall/winter. Complete the look with our great exploded herringbone, wide spread collar shirt worn with a chocolate solid wool tie, and a camel corduroy pant. Wow.

We think that the coat with its hacking pockets and overlapping ticket pocket also differentiates it from the rest of the pack! Go to our website www.kuhlmancompany.com and check out the prices - AMAZING! At these prices, you can then afford a trip to Italy to enjoy the culture.

Also, remember to tie the tie using the "double-fore-in-hand" knot! It gives it fullness without looking sloppy. This coat is also great with a pair of jeans or a grey flannel which can also be found in the stores.

Olive Oil Press

2007-11-16T14:39:00.000-06:00

We thought you'd enjoy this photo of the first press at this year's Olive Oil harvest in the Lucchese Hills of Italy. On the left is the "Liquid Gold" as it gets separated from the mash on the right. We leave this mash with the press, and they then sell it to others to be pressed a 2nd and 3rd time to extract the last drop.

This mash is mixed with all the mash of other olive orchards. Estate olive oil is considered the best for the fact that you are getting oil from one orchard and it usually has a very distinct flavor. Depending on the soil, climate and growing season, the oil's flavor is affected - much like grapes and the harvest process they go through. When the mash is mixed with others, you are getting a blended taste and it is no longer considered estate oil. The acidity is at it's lowest after the first press, and it considered the most desirable. Who has the bread?

The Olive Harvest

2007-11-16T14:27:00.000-06:00

Over the course of the past week we were in Italy working on new product for the upcoming season and had the opportunity to work on the Olive harvest. The harvest is an amazing experience. This is something that technology really has not touched. Much of the olive harvest is still done by hand. Men and women climbing in trees picking the olives.

This is a photo of our olives after they have been picked and are laying in nets on the ground. These olives are not edible and they are only used for the oil - but what amazing oil. We are learning that our olives near the city of Lucca (30 minutes from Pisa, 50 minutes from Florence) are some of the best in the world. Because of the soil, the vacinity to the Mediteranean Sea (it is far enough away that the salt air does not hurt the fruit) and the southern exposure it helps to create even what the Italians call their #1 "Olio Olivo".

We harvested about 10% of the trees in 1 day and the olives yielded just under 20%, which is above average. However, the next photo is what we consider the "Liquid Gold", the first press olive oil. For those who have never experienced fresh pressed, first press oil - we hope you have the opportunity one day. After tasting this you will believe that food is simply a vehicle for olive oil. This isn't the stuff you buy at the grocery store and you will never settle for off the shelf oil again!

Ties and Pocket Squares

2007-11-02T12:49:00.000-05:00

One of the categories that Susan and I enjoy working on the most is what the industry refers to as "Furnishings". These are the ties, pockets squares, cuff links and belts, that can really make your wardrode Stand Apart.

We are in the process of letting everyone know that there are new ties and pocket squares on our website. Over the past several months we have received hundreds of e-mails asking when they will be back up on the site. The team worked overtime the past few days getting these up!

Thanks Steve, Susan and Sam, or as they are now referred, the "Three S's". (say that fast 10 times, Steve, Susan, Sam, Steve, Susan, Sam, Steve, Susan, Sam.........)

Happy Shopping!

Inspiration

2007-10-24T11:15:00.000-05:00

When Susan and I are asked where we get our inspiration - we usually give the answer "Italy". We, like many others are not only inspired by their fashion, we are also inspired by their landscape and archeticture. We love the way the Italians will take a centuries old building and add a modern wing.

This picture is from an area around Lucca, near the small town of Tofori that Susan and I call home many months out of the year. This area is known for it's Olive Oil and we look forward to the new harvest in November. In the future we will tell you more about this "Estate" Olio Olivo!

This picture is fantastic for the colors of the season. We invite you to stop by our stores or website where you can see the rich greens, oranges and blues interpreted in our clothing and accesssories. Enjoy visiting http://www.fattoriadifubbiano.it/ where the vines you see in this photo's are from - they are known for their amazing San Gennaro wine. We'll think of you when we raise our glass in appreication! Ciao!

Coat of the Season

2007-10-23T17:40:00.000-05:00

This really is "the coat" of the season! We're not normally fans of camelhair, as it's usually a little too heavy and stiff, etc. However - we found this 70% Camelhair, 30% cotton (the cotton gives the underside a denim look) from a small mill in Northern Italy.

We then made the coat unlined, trimmed the seams in a typical kuhlman lining and we now have the blazer of the season.

This is a great coat to throw on with your favorite sweater, a chunky scarf and you can wear it as an outerwear piece. This is equally as nice with a grey flannel pant and your favorite Gingham shirt.

We have also insured that you will not look like your Grandfather by using our signature overlapping ticket pocket, pic stitching and side vents. Take a look at our website for more information, www.kuhlmancompany.com

Enjoy!

Cuff Links-Silk Knots

2007-10-23T13:41:00.000-05:00

We have been asked why we don't carry traditional cuff links in our stores or website. First, take a look at the amazing handmade silk knots that we do carry. We love the color, texture and pattern that they allow. When picking silk knots for your kuhlman shirt, don't feel like you need to "match" the colors, do something that contrasts, this gives you a unique identity!

We are happy to say that we just worked with our supplier on Friday and Iris brought us some amazing new ideas for the future. In the meantime the stores are loaded with new colors and they will be hitting the website soon. I also thought you might enjoy an amazing photo of our silk knots that Susan's father, Steve Andersen just shot for us! This represents extactly what the kuhlman brand is all about. Thanks Steve.

The bigger issue with traditional cuff links is just that, they are traditional and anything that we find that is unique is rather expensive. The kuhlman brand is all about attainable items, and at this moment we have not found cuff links that are unique and the pricing fits with our shirts. We are always trying to hunt them down, for now we offer these amazing silk knots!

Italian Suits

2007-10-23T12:55:00.000-05:00

The following is my reply to a question asking where our suits are made.

Scott's reply: We make our suits in Italy and Turkey. I have to tell you that I am a snob when it comes to tailored clothing and we have really worked on getting both Italy and Turkey on the same page. We love the Italians because of their creativity and after all, Italy is the home to amazing “Tailoring”. The issue is that all the factories in Italy have been closing! I also have to tell you the costs are going through the roof! (look at the value of the dollar vs. the euro over the past year). One of our goals is the keep the Retail price of the suit attainable.

As you may or may not know, typically about 60% of the cost of a suit is in the fabric. While we have experimented with “lower Cost” fabrics, we have not liked them. There is nothing like a beautiful Super 130’s from a European mill. So trying to buy less expensive fabric was not the answer, we had to buy from Europe, we are also burdened with the fact that the fabrics we want are in Italy and we have to pay in Euro. The only thing we could do is figure out a way to make the suit at a price that made sense and in a country we can pay with US dollars.

To compromise, we have found a factory in Turkey that is amazing. We brought our factory from Italy to visit them and now we have a joint venture going! The Italians are teaching the Turks how to do what they do best. So to answer your question, for the foreseeable future we will be making products in both countries.

Now on to your question regarding half-canvass, full canvass, etc. I grew up in a era, where “suit making” was actually standardized and we had what was called a “1” make, a “2” make, a “3” make and a “4” make. This was all based on how much hand tailoring was done, if it was full canvass or half or if the buttons were corozo, etc. Almost like hotels get their “Star” ranking. This is also how a manufacturer came up with the cost. Today this has changed. A garment is based upon the “Minutes” that it takes to make the garment. Of course whether it is half-canvas or full canvass are part of the picture, but because of technology and how we can make a “very soft” garment with fusing, versus a canvass product, the idea of “make” has become less important. The finished product is what we are after. What does it feel like? How does it hold up? How does it wear? These are the questions that we ask. To be honest, we use a combination of half canvass, however, we like some “Heavy” looking fabrics, so to keep the garment light, we fuse the garment, so there really isn't a good “Straight” answer that I can give you, but I hope this sheds some light on the subject.

I am here to tell you to not get caught up in the “make”, I would get caught up in the “Fabric”. To us, our “make”, either Italy or Turkey is adequate (we are always looking to improve), the fabric is what we are concerned with. For the Spring and Fall collection all the tailored clothing fabrics are from the finest European mills. I think you will find them amazing. I think you will also find the quality of the “Make” amazing for what you have to pay!

Fitted Shirts-Sizing-Tie Length

2007-10-23T12:06:00.000-05:00

The following are some recent questions that I thought would be great to share.

Customer Question #1: Why don't you have fitted shirts anymore? Although the quality of your dress shirts is first rate (as are some of the herringbone and other tone-on-tone fabrics), those of us who are on the slim-to-athletic side do not like to spend money on properly tailoring flat-front suit or dress trousers just to have yards of shirt fabric billowing out around the waist. It looks sloppy, makes the wearer look fat, and is generally at odds with the point of wearing things that fit. It’s pretty bad when your retail stores suggest that buyers put "darts" in standard-fit shirts to bring them in. Darts are for blouses, not shirts.

Scott Reply: We do have fitted shirts. At the moment there are 3 styles of fitted shirts in the stores and on the Website. MFSHRT F07 K09 Green and MFSHRT F07 K09 Blue, and MFSHRT F07 K01 White. Concerning “Darts”, we work with the finest shirt pattern makers in Europe and have tried fitted shirts with darts and without darts, frankly, we happen to agree with our pattern makers and a proper fitted shirt has darts. Most men who need a fitted shirt, because of their structure, large shoulders but a smaller waist, need the room throughout the armhole and chest, but just need the waist smaller. To achieve this, with the proper portions and to not “Twist” the shirt, darts are necessary. The best way to think of this, may be to look at your suit coat. Most suit coats, with the exception of a “Sack Suit”, will have a “Dart” in the front of a coat. When we are making an “Athletic Fit” suit coat, this front “Dart” is key, because the sides of the coat can only be adjusted so much. I appreciate your comment that “Darts” are for blouses only, however I have several very professional pattern makers in Italy that would find exception with that.

Customer Question #2: What neck size fitting standard do you use? It's been my experience buying your products that if you follow Kuhlman metric sizes and standard cross references, you end up with Kuhlman shirts that are 1/4 to 1/2" smaller than you would expect. I'm sure that if you corrected this, no one would complain - especially anyone who machine dries these shirts. Sometimes it's nice to be able to take something to the cleaners - like when you are out of town.

Scott Reply: Concerning sizes, the conversion chart that we use is as close as we can come, remember converting inches to centimeters “Exactly”, no one would understand. Also keep in mind that shirt Spec’s in America are all over the board. Susan and I have made shirts for many other retailers using their specs, because of “Vanity” sizing, we have specs from many retailers that neck sizes are actually 1 inch larger then what is on the shirt tag. In Europe they do not have this “Vanity” sizing, when you measure the neck, if the tag on the shirt says 41, then the circumference is really 41 centimeters. Our mentality is more “Find the size that fits you properly”, then go with it. We have worked with the best pattern makers over the years to perfect patterns and we believe that the Kuhlman Fit works great for most customers - it is only a matter of finding the size that works for you.

Customer Question #3: Could you get some ties in that are constructed properly for the cutaway collars? A little longer, a little wider, and 7-fold?

Scott’s Reply: Our ties are constructed properly for cutaway collars. A tie is a tie and you do not make a tie specifically for a cutaway collar. The knot should be tied exactly like the knot on the regular kuhlman collar. I would guess by your comment that you are trying to tie a Full Windsor knot, which is common in England. We prefer a “Double Four in Hand” knot, which is simply wrapping the tie around twice rather then once, then you do not pull the knot tight, this allows for a “Dimple” which the Full Windsor does not. It also allows you to not use as much tie, which I’m sure is your comment on the “Length” of the tie. One other note, ties today are worn shorter in Europe than in the US, something else we prefer. You also must realize that it is not as simple as to simply make the tie longer. Because of the way that tie fabric is woven, we would need to use different looms (wider) to make fabric wider, to accommodate a longer tie. Ties are cut on the bias and the width of the fabric determines the length of the tie - looms for the most part are a standard width.