For those that would like to see this work of art up close, here you go!
Friday, December 14, 2007
Mink Trimmed Wool and Cashmere Cape
Our friends, Antonio and Ursula in Florence have created one of the most beautiful products that I have seen in some time. You can call this a cape, throw or a shawl - I just call it BEAUTIFUL.
They used a classic Biella, cashmere/wool fabric, then they trimmed it with Mink. There were only 8 of them created, one of them will be in the Kuhlman home and there are now 7 available for the rest of the World.
Don't you just love Italians. We have always used the word "utilitarian", they are so good about using things in many different ways. One minute you could be snuggled up on the sofa with this over you and the next minute you could be headed out the door with this as your outerwear piece. There are not too many items that can be used in such a way!
This is so elegant that you could wear this to your New Year's Party and be the Belle of the Ball!
Email orders@kuhlmancompany.com if you want to purchase one today. Refer to Cashmere Cape for the special price of $699 from $995! Measures 144 cm Square. They will not last long!
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Italian Style
Ok, so I'm not the best photographer and most likely will not win awards, however- after spending the past several weeks in Italy working on product, visiting our factories and spending some time in our favorite stores in Pistoia, Lucca and Arrezzo, I had to take a photo of our favorite outfit of the season in the stores. We think this is just a great outfit. It features an exploded plaid tweed coat, not too heavy, but it looks like fall/winter. Complete the look with our great exploded herringbone, wide spread collar shirt worn with a chocolate solid wool tie, and a camel corduroy pant. Wow.
We think that the coat with its hacking pockets and overlapping ticket pocket also differentiates it from the rest of the pack! Go to our website www.kuhlmancompany.com and check out the prices - AMAZING! At these prices, you can then afford a trip to Italy to enjoy the culture.
Also, remember to tie the tie using the "double-fore-in-hand" knot! It gives it fullness without looking sloppy. This coat is also great with a pair of jeans or a grey flannel which can also be found in the stores.
Friday, November 16, 2007
Olive Oil Press
We thought you'd enjoy this photo of the first press at this year's Olive Oil harvest in the Lucchese Hills of Italy. On the left is the "Liquid Gold" as it gets separated from the mash on the right. We leave this mash with the press, and they then sell it to others to be pressed a 2nd and 3rd time to extract the last drop.This mash is mixed with all the mash of other olive orchards. Estate olive oil is considered the best for the fact that you are getting oil from one orchard and it usually has a very distinct flavor. Depending on the soil, climate and growing season, the oil's flavor is affected - much like grapes and the harvest process they go through. When the mash is mixed with others, you are getting a blended taste and it is no longer considered estate oil. The acidity is at it's lowest after the first press, and it considered the most desirable. Who has the bread?
The Olive Harvest
Over the course of the past week we were in Italy working on new product for the upcoming season and had the opportunity to work on the Olive harvest. The harvest is an amazing experience. This is something that technology really has not touched. Much of the olive harvest is still done by hand. Men and women climbing in trees picking the olives.
This is a photo of our olives after they have been picked and are laying in nets on the ground. These olives are not edible and they are only used for the oil - but what amazing oil. We are learning that our olives near the city of Lucca (30 minutes from Pisa, 50 minutes from Florence) are some of the best in the world. Because of the soil, the vacinity to the Mediteranean Sea (it is far enough away that the salt air does not hurt the fruit) and the southern exposure it helps to create even what the Italians call their #1 "Olio Olivo".
We harvested about 10% of the trees in 1 day and the olives yielded just under 20%, which is above average. However, the next photo is what we consider the "Liquid Gold", the first press olive oil. For those who have never experienced fresh pressed, first press oil - we hope you have the opportunity one day. After tasting this you will believe that food is simply a vehicle for olive oil. This isn't the stuff you buy at the grocery store and you will never settle for off the shelf oil again!
Friday, November 2, 2007
Ties and Pocket Squares
One of the categories that Susan and I enjoy working on the most is what the industry refers to as "Furnishings". These are the ties, pockets squares, cuff links and belts, that can really make your wardrode Stand Apart.
We are in the process of letting everyone know that there are new ties and pocket squares on our website. Over the past several months we have received hundreds of e-mails asking when they will be back up on the site. The team worked overtime the past few days getting these up!
Thanks Steve, Susan and Sam, or as they are now referred, the "Three S's". (say that fast 10 times, Steve, Susan, Sam, Steve, Susan, Sam, Steve, Susan, Sam.........)
Happy Shopping!
Wednesday, October 24, 2007
Inspiration
When Susan and I are asked where we get our inspiration - we usually give the answer "Italy". We, like many others are not only inspired by their fashion, we are also inspired by their landscape and archeticture. We love the way the Italians will take a centuries old building and add a modern wing.
This picture is from an area around Lucca, near the small town of Tofori that Susan and I call home many months out of the year. This area is known for it's Olive Oil and we look forward to the new harvest in November. In the future we will tell you more about this "Estate" Olio Olivo!
This picture is fantastic for the colors of the season. We invite you to stop by our stores or website where you can see the rich greens, oranges and blues interpreted in our clothing and accesssories. Enjoy visiting http://www.fattoriadifubbiano.it/ where the vines you see in this photo's are from - they are known for their amazing San Gennaro wine. We'll think of you when we raise our glass in appreication! Ciao!
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Coat of the Season
This really is "the coat" of the season! We're not normally fans of camelhair, as it's usually a little too heavy and stiff, etc. However - we found this 70% Camelhair, 30% cotton (the cotton gives the underside a denim look) from a small mill in Northern Italy.
We then made the coat unlined, trimmed the seams in a typical kuhlman lining and we now have the blazer of the season.
This is a great coat to throw on with your favorite sweater, a chunky scarf and you can wear it as an outerwear piece. This is equally as nice with a grey flannel pant and your favorite Gingham shirt.
We have also insured that you will not look like your Grandfather by using our signature overlapping ticket pocket, pic stitching and side vents. Take a look at our website for more information, www.kuhlmancompany.com
Enjoy!
Cuff Links-Silk Knots
We have been asked why we don't carry traditional cuff links in our stores or website. First, take a look at the amazing handmade silk knots that we do carry. We love the color, texture and pattern that they allow. When picking silk knots for your kuhlman shirt, don't feel like you need to "match" the colors, do something that contrasts, this gives you a unique identity! We are happy to say that we just worked with our supplier on Friday and Iris brought us some amazing new ideas for the future. In the meantime the stores are loaded with new colors and they will be hitting the website soon. I also thought you might enjoy an amazing photo of our silk knots that Susan's father, Steve Andersen just shot for us! This represents extactly what the kuhlman brand is all about. Thanks Steve.
The bigger issue with traditional cuff links is just that, they are traditional and anything that we find that is unique is rather expensive. The kuhlman brand is all about attainable items, and at this moment we have not found cuff links that are unique and the pricing fits with our shirts. We are always trying to hunt them down, for now we offer these amazing silk knots!
Italian Suits
The following is my reply to a question asking where our suits are made.
Scott's reply: We make our suits in Italy and Turkey. I have to tell you that I am a snob when it comes to tailored clothing and we have really worked on getting both Italy and Turkey on the same page. We love the Italians because of their creativity and after all, Italy is the home to amazing “Tailoring”. The issue is that all the factories in Italy have been closing! I also have to tell you the costs are going through the roof! (look at the value of the dollar vs. the euro over the past year). One of our goals is the keep the Retail price of the suit attainable.
As you may or may not know, typically about 60% of the cost of a suit is in the fabric. While we have experimented with “lower Cost” fabrics, we have not liked them. There is nothing like a beautiful Super 130’s from a European mill. So trying to buy less expensive fabric was not the answer, we had to buy from Europe, we are also burdened with the fact that the fabrics we want are in Italy and we have to pay in Euro. The only thing we could do is figure out a way to make the suit at a price that made sense and in a country we can pay with US dollars.
To compromise, we have found a factory in Turkey that is amazing. We brought our factory from Italy to visit them and now we have a joint venture going! The Italians are teaching the Turks how to do what they do best. So to answer your question, for the foreseeable future we will be making products in both countries.
Now on to your question regarding half-canvass, full canvass, etc. I grew up in a era, where “suit making” was actually standardized and we had what was called a “1” make, a “2” make, a “3” make and a “4” make. This was all based on how much hand tailoring was done, if it was full canvass or half or if the buttons were corozo, etc. Almost like hotels get their “Star” ranking. This is also how a manufacturer came up with the cost. Today this has changed. A garment is based upon the “Minutes” that it takes to make the garment. Of course whether it is half-canvas or full canvass are part of the picture, but because of technology and how we can make a “very soft” garment with fusing, versus a canvass product, the idea of “make” has become less important. The finished product is what we are after. What does it feel like? How does it hold up? How does it wear? These are the questions that we ask. To be honest, we use a combination of half canvass, however, we like some “Heavy” looking fabrics, so to keep the garment light, we fuse the garment, so there really isn't a good “Straight” answer that I can give you, but I hope this sheds some light on the subject.
I am here to tell you to not get caught up in the “make”, I would get caught up in the “Fabric”. To us, our “make”, either Italy or Turkey is adequate (we are always looking to improve), the fabric is what we are concerned with. For the Spring and Fall collection all the tailored clothing fabrics are from the finest European mills. I think you will find them amazing. I think you will also find the quality of the “Make” amazing for what you have to pay!
Scott's reply: We make our suits in Italy and Turkey. I have to tell you that I am a snob when it comes to tailored clothing and we have really worked on getting both Italy and Turkey on the same page. We love the Italians because of their creativity and after all, Italy is the home to amazing “Tailoring”. The issue is that all the factories in Italy have been closing! I also have to tell you the costs are going through the roof! (look at the value of the dollar vs. the euro over the past year). One of our goals is the keep the Retail price of the suit attainable.
As you may or may not know, typically about 60% of the cost of a suit is in the fabric. While we have experimented with “lower Cost” fabrics, we have not liked them. There is nothing like a beautiful Super 130’s from a European mill. So trying to buy less expensive fabric was not the answer, we had to buy from Europe, we are also burdened with the fact that the fabrics we want are in Italy and we have to pay in Euro. The only thing we could do is figure out a way to make the suit at a price that made sense and in a country we can pay with US dollars.
To compromise, we have found a factory in Turkey that is amazing. We brought our factory from Italy to visit them and now we have a joint venture going! The Italians are teaching the Turks how to do what they do best. So to answer your question, for the foreseeable future we will be making products in both countries.
Now on to your question regarding half-canvass, full canvass, etc. I grew up in a era, where “suit making” was actually standardized and we had what was called a “1” make, a “2” make, a “3” make and a “4” make. This was all based on how much hand tailoring was done, if it was full canvass or half or if the buttons were corozo, etc. Almost like hotels get their “Star” ranking. This is also how a manufacturer came up with the cost. Today this has changed. A garment is based upon the “Minutes” that it takes to make the garment. Of course whether it is half-canvas or full canvass are part of the picture, but because of technology and how we can make a “very soft” garment with fusing, versus a canvass product, the idea of “make” has become less important. The finished product is what we are after. What does it feel like? How does it hold up? How does it wear? These are the questions that we ask. To be honest, we use a combination of half canvass, however, we like some “Heavy” looking fabrics, so to keep the garment light, we fuse the garment, so there really isn't a good “Straight” answer that I can give you, but I hope this sheds some light on the subject.
I am here to tell you to not get caught up in the “make”, I would get caught up in the “Fabric”. To us, our “make”, either Italy or Turkey is adequate (we are always looking to improve), the fabric is what we are concerned with. For the Spring and Fall collection all the tailored clothing fabrics are from the finest European mills. I think you will find them amazing. I think you will also find the quality of the “Make” amazing for what you have to pay!
Fitted Shirts-Sizing-Tie Length
The following are some recent questions that I thought would be great to share.
Customer Question #1: Why don't you have fitted shirts anymore? Although the quality of your dress shirts is first rate (as are some of the herringbone and other tone-on-tone fabrics), those of us who are on the slim-to-athletic side do not like to spend money on properly tailoring flat-front suit or dress trousers just to have yards of shirt fabric billowing out around the waist. It looks sloppy, makes the wearer look fat, and is generally at odds with the point of wearing things that fit. It’s pretty bad when your retail stores suggest that buyers put "darts" in standard-fit shirts to bring them in. Darts are for blouses, not shirts.
Scott Reply: We do have fitted shirts. At the moment there are 3 styles of fitted shirts in the stores and on the Website. MFSHRT F07 K09 Green and MFSHRT F07 K09 Blue, and MFSHRT F07 K01 White. Concerning “Darts”, we work with the finest shirt pattern makers in Europe and have tried fitted shirts with darts and without darts, frankly, we happen to agree with our pattern makers and a proper fitted shirt has darts. Most men who need a fitted shirt, because of their structure, large shoulders but a smaller waist, need the room throughout the armhole and chest, but just need the waist smaller. To achieve this, with the proper portions and to not “Twist” the shirt, darts are necessary. The best way to think of this, may be to look at your suit coat. Most suit coats, with the exception of a “Sack Suit”, will have a “Dart” in the front of a coat. When we are making an “Athletic Fit” suit coat, this front “Dart” is key, because the sides of the coat can only be adjusted so much. I appreciate your comment that “Darts” are for blouses only, however I have several very professional pattern makers in Italy that would find exception with that.
Customer Question #2: What neck size fitting standard do you use? It's been my experience buying your products that if you follow Kuhlman metric sizes and standard cross references, you end up with Kuhlman shirts that are 1/4 to 1/2" smaller than you would expect. I'm sure that if you corrected this, no one would complain - especially anyone who machine dries these shirts. Sometimes it's nice to be able to take something to the cleaners - like when you are out of town.
Scott Reply: Concerning sizes, the conversion chart that we use is as close as we can come, remember converting inches to centimeters “Exactly”, no one would understand. Also keep in mind that shirt Spec’s in America are all over the board. Susan and I have made shirts for many other retailers using their specs, because of “Vanity” sizing, we have specs from many retailers that neck sizes are actually 1 inch larger then what is on the shirt tag. In Europe they do not have this “Vanity” sizing, when you measure the neck, if the tag on the shirt says 41, then the circumference is really 41 centimeters. Our mentality is more “Find the size that fits you properly”, then go with it. We have worked with the best pattern makers over the years to perfect patterns and we believe that the Kuhlman Fit works great for most customers - it is only a matter of finding the size that works for you.
Customer Question #3: Could you get some ties in that are constructed properly for the cutaway collars? A little longer, a little wider, and 7-fold?
Scott’s Reply: Our ties are constructed properly for cutaway collars. A tie is a tie and you do not make a tie specifically for a cutaway collar. The knot should be tied exactly like the knot on the regular kuhlman collar. I would guess by your comment that you are trying to tie a Full Windsor knot, which is common in England. We prefer a “Double Four in Hand” knot, which is simply wrapping the tie around twice rather then once, then you do not pull the knot tight, this allows for a “Dimple” which the Full Windsor does not. It also allows you to not use as much tie, which I’m sure is your comment on the “Length” of the tie. One other note, ties today are worn shorter in Europe than in the US, something else we prefer. You also must realize that it is not as simple as to simply make the tie longer. Because of the way that tie fabric is woven, we would need to use different looms (wider) to make fabric wider, to accommodate a longer tie. Ties are cut on the bias and the width of the fabric determines the length of the tie - looms for the most part are a standard width.
Customer Question #1: Why don't you have fitted shirts anymore? Although the quality of your dress shirts is first rate (as are some of the herringbone and other tone-on-tone fabrics), those of us who are on the slim-to-athletic side do not like to spend money on properly tailoring flat-front suit or dress trousers just to have yards of shirt fabric billowing out around the waist. It looks sloppy, makes the wearer look fat, and is generally at odds with the point of wearing things that fit. It’s pretty bad when your retail stores suggest that buyers put "darts" in standard-fit shirts to bring them in. Darts are for blouses, not shirts.
Scott Reply: We do have fitted shirts. At the moment there are 3 styles of fitted shirts in the stores and on the Website. MFSHRT F07 K09 Green and MFSHRT F07 K09 Blue, and MFSHRT F07 K01 White. Concerning “Darts”, we work with the finest shirt pattern makers in Europe and have tried fitted shirts with darts and without darts, frankly, we happen to agree with our pattern makers and a proper fitted shirt has darts. Most men who need a fitted shirt, because of their structure, large shoulders but a smaller waist, need the room throughout the armhole and chest, but just need the waist smaller. To achieve this, with the proper portions and to not “Twist” the shirt, darts are necessary. The best way to think of this, may be to look at your suit coat. Most suit coats, with the exception of a “Sack Suit”, will have a “Dart” in the front of a coat. When we are making an “Athletic Fit” suit coat, this front “Dart” is key, because the sides of the coat can only be adjusted so much. I appreciate your comment that “Darts” are for blouses only, however I have several very professional pattern makers in Italy that would find exception with that.
Customer Question #2: What neck size fitting standard do you use? It's been my experience buying your products that if you follow Kuhlman metric sizes and standard cross references, you end up with Kuhlman shirts that are 1/4 to 1/2" smaller than you would expect. I'm sure that if you corrected this, no one would complain - especially anyone who machine dries these shirts. Sometimes it's nice to be able to take something to the cleaners - like when you are out of town.
Scott Reply: Concerning sizes, the conversion chart that we use is as close as we can come, remember converting inches to centimeters “Exactly”, no one would understand. Also keep in mind that shirt Spec’s in America are all over the board. Susan and I have made shirts for many other retailers using their specs, because of “Vanity” sizing, we have specs from many retailers that neck sizes are actually 1 inch larger then what is on the shirt tag. In Europe they do not have this “Vanity” sizing, when you measure the neck, if the tag on the shirt says 41, then the circumference is really 41 centimeters. Our mentality is more “Find the size that fits you properly”, then go with it. We have worked with the best pattern makers over the years to perfect patterns and we believe that the Kuhlman Fit works great for most customers - it is only a matter of finding the size that works for you.
Customer Question #3: Could you get some ties in that are constructed properly for the cutaway collars? A little longer, a little wider, and 7-fold?
Scott’s Reply: Our ties are constructed properly for cutaway collars. A tie is a tie and you do not make a tie specifically for a cutaway collar. The knot should be tied exactly like the knot on the regular kuhlman collar. I would guess by your comment that you are trying to tie a Full Windsor knot, which is common in England. We prefer a “Double Four in Hand” knot, which is simply wrapping the tie around twice rather then once, then you do not pull the knot tight, this allows for a “Dimple” which the Full Windsor does not. It also allows you to not use as much tie, which I’m sure is your comment on the “Length” of the tie. One other note, ties today are worn shorter in Europe than in the US, something else we prefer. You also must realize that it is not as simple as to simply make the tie longer. Because of the way that tie fabric is woven, we would need to use different looms (wider) to make fabric wider, to accommodate a longer tie. Ties are cut on the bias and the width of the fabric determines the length of the tie - looms for the most part are a standard width.
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