Sunday, March 29, 2009

The Jacket

Although men have always had what we have called the Suit Jacket, Sportcoat or Blazer, this item has never been more prevalent. You would think that in a more casual world that the jacket, much as the tie/cravat would go away. We believe there has never been a more important time for men's jacket.
With all of our new electronics that have become so important to us, because the "Man Bag", as much as we like it has not take off, because a fanny pack is not someone we will even consider and wearing electronics on your belt should just not happen, the Jacket is not only the last resort, it is a great part of fashion when done correctly.
Jackets today should be soft, comfortable and as the picture shows, "to the body". In the past we have called these jackets sweater coats or shackets (not a shirt, not a jacket) and although we use many of the principles of the past, today's jacket is fully constructed and uses all types of fabric. From beautiful cashmere, to fine linens and cottons, the Jacket is now the key to a man's wardrobe.
When we moved into a more casual world, every man tried to take their suit coats and sportcoats and try to wear them with Denim. We would hesitate from doing this. The proper jacket to be worn in a more casual way has certain aesthetics that a coat constructed for a Suit or a dress sportcoat, simple does not have.
Now you will ask, what are these aesthetics. Typically it starts with the shoulder. This is a shoulder shape/look that is typical of Italy. We prefer the Neapolitan shoulder that even has slight puckering (this is another blog). This shoulder is soft and round. The jacket is also light and drappy, the armhole is high and the body should fit to your body. This should not be baggy and sloppy. When cut this way, the jacket will move with you.
The other key parts to this look are then the fine gauge sweater and the woven or knit. One of the key fashion ideas that we will also start to promote, is men starting to tuck their shirts back into their pants!
Look forward to more discussion on the jacket!


2 comments:

Jacque said...

How do we get our hands on another Kuhlman shirt? It is my husbands favorite shirt and he has worn it out. He has worn it for three years and I can salvage it no longer.

Anonymous said...

http://www.skuhlman.com/